What's on the Menu: The Douglas
PSA: The Obstinate Daughter's blueberry açaí bowl is now in Savannah.
The first time I saw The Obstinate Daughter on Sullivan’s Island was Fourth of July weekend, 2020. Jared and I had escaped from our 800-square-foot Atlanta apartment to an airy Airbnb in Charleston for a socially distanced getaway and sanity-saving change of scenery.
Although we didn’t dine at The OD on that particular trip, I distinctly remember feeling a little entranced as I strolled by the restaurant’s beachy home on Middle Street and made a mental note to return someday. I immediately loved the name and, like everything else on Sullivan’s Island, the restaurant seemed to radiate a warm glow—kind of like Cousins Beach, but real.
Five years later, I still have yet to return to The OD; however, thanks to a new hospitality project called The Douglas from the same team, I can now get a taste of Chef Jacques Larson’s acclaimed food (he’s a two-time James Beard Award-nominated chef) without driving too far from home in Savannah.
The Douglas stands apart from Larson’s other Lowcountry concepts—also in partnership with Doug Godley (the inn’s namesake), including The OD and Wild Olive—and not just because this is his first project outside South Carolina. Housed in a 19th-century residence on iconic Oglethorpe Avenue, The Douglas is a 16-room inn with a private bar, evening snacks, and an à la carte breakfast menu for overnight guests.
In between meals, visitors certainly won’t go hungry either. On the landing of every floor of the inn, a well-stocked mini bar and a closet filled with board games and complimentary snack is provided to cure any mid-day or late-night cravings. And next year, The Douglas will add a full-service seafood restaurant called Lester’s —a nod to the building’s history as a 1920s boarding house known as The Lester House—open to the public.
Since the inn quietly opened earlier this summer, Lowcountry tastemakers like The Paris Market’s Paula Danyluk and the writer/restaurateur, Brooks Reitz, have already been raving about the well-appointed interiors by Charleston-based designer Kirby Caldwell and, of course, the food. (Funny enough: I did fall in love with the outdoor oyster shed at Reitz’s Leon’s Oyster Shop for the first time on that aforementioned 2020 beach trip. Small world, huh?)
Earlier this month, I popped by The Douglas on a Friday afternoon to tour the gorgeous space for myself and, obviously, to learn more about what’s on the menu. Here, Larson shares what guests can expect and teases what’s ahead for Lester’s. Dear reader, I’m smitten with the vibe and very, very excited about this culinary addition to Savannah.
In the meantime, I may have to book a staycation to *finally* try that blueberry açaí bowl for myself…
CMA: How did you approach building the à la carte breakfast menu for guests at The Douglas?
JL: As with any menu, it was written with a goal in mind. We wanted the breakfast at The Douglas to be not only delicious, but simple, yet polished. Although it is not a large menu, we wanted to make sure that we hit as many of the breakfast "notes" as we could.
I guess this is why I love writing menus, because it enables me to serve items that I feel are imperative to the experience. I've always said that I would rather have 10 menu items that are executed perfectly versus offering 20 that are half-assed. It's a small hotel and a small kitchen. That dictated that the menu would be concise.
Another factor is always keeping in mind your ability to pull off the dishes. What are your limitations with equipment, location, or sourcing? Too many times (especially during events), you see chefs who overreach what they set out to cook, not keeping in mind that off-site, they are not equipped to recreate a dish that they could easily do in their restaurant kitchens.
Most importantly, I wanted the menu to be fun. What would excite me if I were to sit down and eat breakfast at The Douglas? How can we offer a very traditional meal while still working in some items or ingredients that aren't so commonplace or boring? I think we did a great job in accomplishing this.
CMA: The first item on the menu is a blueberry açaí bowl, which is a pleasant surprise as açaí bowls aren't frequently found on Savannah menus. What inspired this?
JL: The blueberry-açaí bowl is something that we actually serve during brunch at The Obstinate Daughter. It is a very popular dish that has been on the menu for years. I love a great açaí bowl for breakfast as it is nutritious, yet filling. Because we have a gelateria below The Obstinate Daughter (Beardcat's Sweet Shop), our pastry chef, at the time, had run a blueberry-açaí sorbet that guests loved. The dish at The OD grew out of that. It is such a great addition to our Charleston menu, I knew I wanted to do it in Savannah!
CMA: People know you and your food from The Douglas' sister restaurants, The Obstinate Daughter and Wild Olive, in the Lowcountry. How do your dishes at The Douglas compare to your other restaurants?
JL: I have now worked with Doug Godley and what has now become the Obstinate Hospitality restaurant group for over 16 years. We have been afforded tremendous success by restaurant standards. I take great pride in the fact that our restaurants have become so popular over time and that so many people across the country (and world) have experienced our version of hospitality and food.
I just turned 55 last month. At this point in time, I'm like Popeye [the Sailor Man]. … I am what I am! My love for Italian food is always a given. You can see that in our version of Shrimp and Grits at The Douglas. Good-quality tomatoes, pancetta, and Calabrian chiles are always a good idea!
My other passions, in regard to cuisine types, also find relevance on the menu as my French heritage and training are always with me, as is my love for the Lowcountry and its food. I have now lived in the Lowcountry longer than I lived in the Midwest. That is so mind-boggling to me.
CMA: What most attracted you to take on this new project with The Douglas in Savannah?
JL: I am always up for a project. I love going into a space and discerning what it calls for conceptually. I talked about this a bit while discussing my approach to writing The Douglas breakfast menu above. I love to create. For years, this desire to create was satiated by writing and executing menus in restaurants. Having had the opportunity to open six restaurants over the years, I have found that creating successful restaurant concepts is just as gratifying as creating great food.
I also loved the idea of creating a food service program in an intimate hotel. It is the full embodiment of hospitality and brings a person's experience full circle. I remember the last chef I worked for (the late Chef Robert Carter at Peninsula Grill) saying how special it is not only to cook for our guests, but being able to tuck them in at night. Classic over-the-top Bob, but what a great line!
Lastly, I was very excited to work and create in Savannah. A few years ago, I made it down to the city for a weekend getaway. I realised that I had not visited in 15 years. I couldn't believe how much it had progressed....especially in regard to its food scene. Chefs like Mashama Bailey, Kyle Jacovino, Brandon Carter and Andrew Brochu have elevated the cuisine of the historic city. I have enjoyed spending a good time in our sister city. I'm pretty sure they are getting tired of seeing my face at Late Air. What an incredible place!
CMA: From your perspective, what is the ideal breakfast order at The Douglas?
JL: My ideal breakfast order at The Douglas would probably be the shrimp and grits. Growing up with a fear of grits in the Midwest, as I had no knowledge as to what they were other than Flo telling Mel to “Kiss My Grits" on “Alice,” I immediately fell in love with them when I moved to the Lowcountry in 1996. It is such a wonderful comfort food. Using Anson Mills’ stone-ground grits and Shipyard Shrimp in the dish....it's hard to go wrong.
CMA: What is the must-try bite?
JL: A must-try item at The Douglas would have to be any of the daily pastries that we make in-house and serve for breakfast. I also am very fond of our bagels and house-cured lox. It is an involved process making the lox, but well worth the time and energy. Lastly, our coffee and tea programs in the hotel are top-notch, partnering with Counter Culture for our coffee service and Pursuit of Tea for our elevated tea offerings.
CMA: Can you tease what's in store on the menu for Lester's Seafood?
JL: We are so very excited to launch the sister restaurant to The Douglas. Lester's will also be an intimate space, but open to the public. Because of its size, I look forward to connecting with guests on a more personal level. It will be leaning French conceptually and offer top-quality seafood from the Southeast and beyond, as it will be an oyster bar.
There will be a number of small plates to fortify the seafood selections, and at least one or two larger menu items to satisfy those who want a more substantial meal. It will be such a fun place to grab a bite and drink on one of the prettiest streets in Savannah.
The Douglas
14 E. Oglethorpe Ave.
thedouglas.com
@thedouglas.savannah
Photography courtesy of The Douglas and Colleen McNally Arnett